Shirt Instructions Smocked Pleated Fabric Insert
First Trace a copy of the front piece of your pattern on paper.

1.When cutting your pattern cut 2 of the front. Put the 2nd piece aside.
Lay your pleated insert on your front and mark the position you want it
in.  I usually measure about 3" from the shoulder seam  to 1" from the
top of the border design on the pleated insert. Then about 2 1/2" from
the bottom of the armhole to the 1" below the bottom of the Border on
the finished  design.
On front #1: With a ruler  or straight
edge draw your  top and bottom cutting
line.
Take the second front piece you cut and lay it on your table.  Place the
top portion of the first piece and lay it on the second top. Measure 1'
from the bottom edge and mark.
Take the bottom piece and lay on the bottom of the first front and
measure 1' from the top and mark.
Draw a straight line across on the 2 new markings you made on front
#2  and cut across. You now have 2 pieces.  
Discard the top and bottom of front # 1 because they will be to short to
use.
Sew the middle section onto the end of each
side of the insert the insert.  Sew the piping
onto the bottom piece.
Serge the raw edges
You will have 4 pieces.....top - 2 middle sections that
you will cut in half, and a bottom. You will use the top
and bottom piece for a length guide but they will not
be used to sew to the pleated insert....just as a cutting
guide. The 2 middle pieces will be use to sew on each
side of the pleated fabric for extentions
Take a quilting square or you large
hoop grid and mark the center of
you pleated insert.
Sew you piping across the top of
your top portion. I used baby
piping but you can use the larger
piping. I also use white thread so
you could see the stitch lines. Set
aside
Sew the piped bottom section to the bottom of the pleated
insert. Matching the top of the piping with the bottom red
border stitch.as you did the top.
The finished Scottie Turtleneck from
page #1
Here you have the finished
front of the turtle neck ,  or
sweat shirt.
Assemble the rest of the shirt
according to the directions of
your pattern.
Take the paper copy of  you
front section of the pattern
and place it on the top of the
finished shirt and re-cut the
arm holes.
Place the top portion that you sewed the piping to, onto pleated insert.  Raise the
top as you sew to make sure you are keeping the top of the piping on the top of
the border stitching on the insert.

Serge the raw edges when finished.