smockingingstruction2

Machine Picture Smocking Instructions

Always tear your fabric strips for a straight bias, do not cut. If your fabric will not tear good it will not pleat good. Measure your fabric 7" x the
width of the fabric and pleat 16 rows. The needles are 3/8" apart on my pleater so if my design says it is 3 1/2 inches tall that will be 11 pleated
rows. Leave yourself 1/2 inch on each side and 1" on top and bottom for insertion. It is best to pleat 16 rows to not short yourself
Step # 1
We begin by taking the pleated insert and separating the pleats. I use a place mat that has a good stiff stabilizer inside. Use masking tape to
tape off a 10" square as a guide used for fanning the pleats. (See photos below)

( The camera made these pleats look gathered and distorted, but they have been fanned properly and straightened)
Step #2 Pin down the corners on the right side and pull out the panel to a length of a 10 " sewing area, Make sure the panel is vertically and
horizontally straight. After expanding the panel 11 inches, secure the top and bottom left corners with a pin.
Step #3 After the panel is extended you can use a hair pick or your fingernails to comb the pleats straight and separate them. The pleats move
easily and smoothly and you will find the slightest unplanned move will move them.
Take all the pleating threads and tie in a knot and secure it taut from the panel. With a straight pin, pin the pleated panel to the mat to help keep
it straight.

Step # 4 Preferably you want to use a stabilizer that can completely be removed from the finished panel so the finished garment will be flexible
and comfortable to the wearer. Stabilizer that you leave in place makes for a stiffer panel, even using a soft mesh. I use a light Press and Hoop
tear away paper. Sulky makes a nice Iron on Tear Away Paper and can be found at most fabric stores. The one I use the most and love, comes
from Zieglers Embroidery Supply. The link is: http://www.zieglersembroiderysupply.com/Stabilizers.html It is called Press n Hoop. It is perfect for
machine smocking and tears away very easy with no stress to the stitches. You can also use WWS stabilizer or a light tear away and baste
stitch the insert to the stabilizer with large basting stitches. I have even used typing paper!

Step # 5 After you have your pleats straight, take your hoop grid and make sure you are vertically and horizontally straight. Then cut and press
on your stabilizer. Press very lightly, the paper adheres easily.
Use your grid to mark the center, side and bottom center notches. You will use these notches to hoop your insert properly in the hoop. You will be
surprised to see you do not need a tight hooping. The insert will stay in place and will not move as it sews. The stitching is very light and not
compact.
Step# 6 Match your pencil lines to your notches in your hoop, DO NOT HOOP THE FABRIC.
When placing your design into the machine, rotate until the top of the design faces left.

This is what your stitches should look like. If your stitches are catching more than 2 pleats continuously then you have your pleats to close
together. If you are stitching one or NO pleats, then you have spread them too thin. About a 10" spread should give you the right density.

Remove pleating threads as each row sews. Leave in the threads in the very top and bottom of the of the panel to keep them secure as you
sew on your piping in the finish. Remove your stabilizer and you have your finished insert ready to use.
When sewing your designs on your inserts, use the large 6 x 10 hoop for a full insert. If your sewing field is a 7 x 5 hoop then use the med size
design. If you have a small 4 x 4 sewing field, use the 4 x 4 hoop size and use them in the order they are numbered. Example: train 4 x 4 part
1 is sewn to the far left of your pleats. After that has sewn load 4 x 4 part 2 into your machine, match up the stitches and sew. Part 3 and
sometimes part 4 come next, until you have a full panel.